Overall schedule (Sept. 10 update); emergency contact info; disclaimer [this “sticky” post stays at top: new posts below]

Here is the schedule as of Sept. 10 (older ones below for comparison):

Aug. 16, 2013 (outdated) schedule:

July 17, 2013 (outdated) schedule:

June 7 (outdated) schedule:

Any problems should immediately be reported to Bob Landegger’s cell phone, and he will initiate correctional action: Cell (805) 705-3107. For less urgent issues you can try his email, but always cc Jacklyn as well:  bob@stonemarkcm.com, jacklyn@stonemarkcm.com.

Disclaimer: In case anyone feels that they are being defamed by things posted on this blog, I offer the following disclaimer:

• The blog presents the opinions and impressions of individual homeowners only, and may not represent realities at the WCP leak remediation project (LRP) construction site.
• These posts are not intended for distribution beyond those residents and guests immediately affected by the LRP.
• The blog is accessible by invitation only. Blog admin Harold Marcuse can send invitations–contact him if you want someone else to have access.

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Furnace upgrade

What follows are 3 messages posted to the WCP community list:
————————————
Greetings All,

We at 956 are contemplating upgrading our heating furnace; the nameplate date of construction on ours is 1983, now over thirty years ago.

We’re interested in hearing if anybody has replaced theirs and what their experience was.

Ours works fine, but we’ve realized that it cycles between full bore on and off, while modern furnaces can be much quieter due to the ability to run at lower fan speeds.

Another issue is improving the air filtering.  We’re very interested if anyone has systematically improved their filtering systems.

The nameplate rating of our unit is 43,000 BTU.   I’ve found the blueprint of our heating arrangement, posted here: http://hep.ucsb.edu/people/hnn/wcp/blueprints/M-5.pdf

There is not a calculation in our blueprints of the heat load needed when we have
a cold day, however.  If anyone has had such a calculation done as part of a furnace upgrade, we’d be very interested in that calculation.

All the best, Audrey & Harry at 956
—————————————

Hi Folks,
We bought a new Payne furnace about 1.5 yrs ago. I do not suggest you do the same. It is not very efficient (low end of scale), pumps our very dry air, and is excessively noisy. I am sure you could do better for the ~$800 we paid.

Cheers,
Hunter [Lenihan]
—————————–

It is good to think about this before the furnace fails (in the winter when it’s cold) and you need to buy whatever’s available right away. That’s how we also ended up with a low-end Payne furnace, probably like Hunter’s.

The new furnace is MUCH quieter than the old one it replaced and more powerful and accommodates a 4-inch easily-replaceable filter that is pretty effective by comparison to the old thing. The smaller the particles the filter removes, the more challenge to the air flow, and the more fan noise, so there are choices there. Like the old one, it is “off/on” with no continuing low-speed fan.

The biggest problem we have become aware of is that the duct system–which runs in the soffit in the study and the front hall–is really leaky. In our (3BR) unit, when the furnace is running, you can feel the drafts of warm air coming out around the can lights in the study and the front hall. We need the heat over at the far end of the house (3rd BR and dining area), but much of it doesn’t arrive there. To fix that properly will require opening up the soffits and addressing the cheap plastic flexible ducting and its many loose connections and leaks.

For that job, we’re talking real money and a lot of dust and disruption.

Cheers,
John [Woolley]

Dec. 31, 2013 Construction Meeting Notes

Construction Meeting Notes
Tuesday, Dec. 31, 2013, 10:30am, Construction Trailer

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 10:52am to 12:30.

Punch list: Bob showed the current list, and a couple ‘tough cases’ were discussed. The caulking of the door hardware has not yet begun at all. JEM and Scott Winter Construction’s lists are mostly complete through the 950s, but not for the last 2 clusters.
A couple of procedural test cases were discussed–when should owners in the “completed” units report things they think should be taken care of by the project? These are often ‘interface’ issues where it is unclear whether this was in the scope of work, or whether this is an interior finishing issue. See next item.

Scope of work on interface issues: Note that in the scope of work the old baseboards and the casings around the doors and windows would have been replaced. The contractor found it preferable to install globally new baseboards and casings. However, in neither case was the filling of nail holes or priming/painting of the wood part of the scope of work. Thus homeowners need to do this (or have it done) when they have these painted. It is a standard part of the things that painters do.
Various ways of addressing these interface issues, at the project level, Association level, and by individual homeowners, were discussed. Ultimately such items are each homeowner’s responsibility. Could the Association facilitate such work to obtain economies of scale?
We did not resolve this issue. The suggestion is to offer homeowners solutions to the various problems, which they could implement themselves or hire someone to do. But who will organize this?

Stains on the upper deck Tufflex coating: the manufacturer’s recommendation was provided, but not sufficient. Going to the “next level” is not part of the project scope.

Doors: “NRP” door hinge replacements have been completely installed *up to and including the 940s*. Two units in the 950s were done as well, but the first delivery of hinges was used up. Additional ones are expected soon.

Door hardware waterproofing/contingency: Stonemark has accepted Jim’s bid to do this work. Bob had a small suggestion on the test unit in the 960s/70s. The per unit bid price went down from $25 to $18, whereas Servpro bid $46, and the waterproofer recommended by MacFarland (Acme) was higher as well.
63 homes times 8, plus 19 Juliet doors=523 door units, means about $9500, which may come out of contingency. However, some funds are coming back into contingency because, for instance, there was less “bad paper” needing to be “chased” around the new installations,.

Reported theft of silver in the 960s: The way this was done was unusual and required pre-planning. There is no specific evidence that the theft was Project-related. The Project will cooperate in any investigation.

Exterior doorstops, -bells, outlet/receptacle covers: if the rigid stick stops break and are reported, they are being replaced with wall models. If they are solid, they will be left alone. Doorbells have been pooled and reused from the beginning; they have now been used up. Thus the 960s and 70s will receive new ones. They are round and have a similar finish, but slightly different in profile. New exterior receptacle covers will need to be purchased as well.

Progress report. 

900s, 910s, 920s, 930s, 940s and 950s: except for ca. 4 units, both JEM and Scott Winter punchlists are complete. However, homeowners won’t be notified of completion until the door hardware waterproofing has been done.

960s: Bob will be finishing his punch lists this week and providing them to the contractors. Painting is ongoing.

970s: The scaffolding is being taken down on 974 & 5 today. Except for a few walls the color coating is complete as well. Roof tiles are being installed. The painters are slightly behind for this cluster; the painting prep, however, is not yet complete.
Tune-up before compilation of the punch list will take place next week.

Next meeting: Tuesday Jan. 14, 2014, 9:30am.

Nov. 12 Construction meeting notes

Key items: door hardware waterproofing fix; skylight installation, where to get matching paint.

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 10:35am to 11:35.

Door hardware waterproofing: A test with caulking and an estimate for $25/door was performed. This is being evaluated whether it is up to the standard set by Roofing Forensics.

Waterproofing & Roofing Forensics (Rick Snow and Rodney Hendrix) are here today (11/12) to do an inspection, including the final inspection of those roofs where all tiles are placed (that is, up to the 930s).

Final stages of roof work: The skylights come AFTER the final tile placement. When the O’Hagin vents are installed during the final placement (after the stucco color coat), the installers are supposed to vacuum through the hole to remove debris from the attic spaces. However owners may want to check on this if they have a “finished” attic (for storage).

Punch lists in progress still: BUT real progress is being made. However there have been some glitches with particular units. There will be a meeting with JEM, Bart and Gail on Friday 11/15 to resolve why this is still happening.

Doorstops: the longer rigid ones are due to arrive in a day or two. Access to the interior will be needed, but some homeowners are at the end of their patience because punch list items have dragged on for so long. Bob is working on a protocol to communicate with homeowners so that they aren’t constantly on notice, but only on the days access is necessary. The “NRP” door hinge replacements may or may not be able to be installed at the same time (unfortunately).

Painting: touch up going on in the 930s & 40s, main work in the 50s & 60s. The Sherwin-Williams store on Milpas has all paint specs on file for this project, ask for West Campus Point HOA or JEM construction, also for the stucco colors. Harold will inquire about this.
If you want to paint the silver flashing (stainless steel) under the weep screeds, for example in the entry courtyard, it can be painted but needs a special primer.

Concrete pouring: all back patios in the 900s-930s, half of the 940s, and the 970s have been done. The rest will wait until the scaffolding comes down.

Progress report. 

900s, 910s, 920s, 930s: Bob has compiled his punch lists for these clusters. Given the rate of completion the first two clusters should be done in about 2 weeks, then the 20s, 30s and 40s will be done.

940s: Stuccoing almost done. Ready for punch list inspections to start.

950s: More than half have their color coating.

960s: The Sto flexyl is going on now.

970s: All the rear patio doors have been installed. The front side is being waterproofed, and the doors are being installed in a few units. The doors should all be installed during the week before Thanksgiving. The scaffolding is going up now (started 11/9, continuing today 11/12).

Next meeting: Tuesday Nov. 26, 2013, 10:30am.

Oct 29 & 31 Construction meeting notes

Key items: water noises during rain due to new drainage configuration; leaks due to slash in Sarnafil.

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 11:12am to 11:20. Gail joined us since she was away and wanted to get up to speed. The rest of the meeting was postponed to Thu. 2pm so that Bob and the Board P & VP could accompany ServePro to the unit with the slash in the Sarnafil over the master bedroom.
We met again on Thursday 10/31 from 2:10-2:40pm.

Noise due to new drainage configuration from pyramid roof onto master bedroom roof: Prior to the remediation the pyramid roof drained into 2 downspouts, one into the entry courtyard, the other into the dining room patio. Now the pyramid roof drains into two scuppers (without downspouts), one onto the master bedroom flat roof, the other over the 2nd bedroom. When the water hits the flat roof it is fairly loud. A solution to deaden the noise would be to put concrete rain splash blocks on a mat of Sarnafil (to protect the Sarnafil roofing). This is not part of the project–does the Board want to pay for it? There is also noise from the increased amount of water flowing through the downspout in the corner of the master bedroom into the study patio. This is more of a rushing than a splashing sound.

Roof leaks after Monday (10/28) night’s 1/2″ rain: Good news: no reported leaks except one, which was an exception (possible vandalism). Bob just got back from inspecting 956-957, which have slashes in the Sarnafil. On one roof there were two cuts, about 5′ and 3′ in length. 957 is currently unoccupied. ServePro has been called. Vandalism can’t be ruled out. Cutting of some other material on top of the Sarnafil (which is cut to size on the ground) is another possibility, but it would have been impossible not to notice such a cut during installation. This Sarnafil was installed many weeks ago. After installation all roofs are inspected by the roofing foreman, and no damage was found.

Hinges with security pins: They are now on site, but the installation requires access, and this needs to be coordinated with the replacement of the flexible with rigid door stoppers. Bob is working on this.

Leaky door hardware: Bob is waiting for a price from JEM for the caulking solution. Before it is implemented it needs to be tested and approved.

How to clean upper deck: use a stiff scrubber brush and the proper cleaning solution. This information is provided in materials from Tufflex, but it is embedded with a lot of irrelevant information. Bob hasn’t had time to extract the relevant parts yet.

Cement pouring: will happen in the 930s/40s etc. during the first week of November.

Progress report. 

900s, 910s, 920s: completion lists are still in progress. The level of completion by the contractor varies widely from unit to unit.

930s: punch lists still in progress.

940s: Stuccoing almost done. Ready for punch list inspections to start.

970s: The front side of the houses will soon be boxed up.

Next meeting: Tuesday Nov. 12, 2013, 10:30am.

Blue and white paint specs

If you want to paint anything “West Campus Point Blue” or white to match the trellises, here are the paint specs, from Sherwin-Williams. Their store is:
Sherwin-Williams Paint
21 N Milpas St (a block up & across the street from Trader Joe’s)
Santa Barbara, CA, 93103-3349
(805) 963-6736

Oct. 15 Construction Meeting Notes

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met on Tuesday from 10:20am to 11:10.

Nails again: Owners are reporting flat tires again. We have seen heightened awareness by contractors, and crews out with magnets. The question is whether the situation has improved since these new measures were implemented, and whether it has improved enough. Saving the incriminating nails can help Bob find the source of the problem.

Roof work: Tiles are loaded for the 930s & 40s; 950s being loaded now. Installation will begin when the ; 60s & 70s are waterproof. When the final stucco coat is done (930s), all can be installed, otherwise roofs that abut a stucco wall have to wait until after color coat. The roofer’s storage containers at the 910s will remain somewhat longer.

Outdoor electric outlet covers: The project will be reinstalling these. If owners want to have their own models (e.g. with special covers for plugs that are permanently left in), they should supply those.

Question of white weather stripping around new doors & windows: It is not designed to be painted. Owners may paint at their own risk. (photos show the weatherstripping around an awning window open and closed)

Deck & trellis work: All decks are in, almost all trellis work is complete (970s). The grassy area being used to paint trellises should be restored within about 3 weeks, and that crew’s storage containers removed as well.

awning window weatherstripping, closed

Cement pouring. GEM is aware that it needs to be scheduled.

Cement Tile Sealer. Bob will find out the product specs and supply them, so owners can use a compatible product if/when they seal their courtyard tiles.

Landscaping. Brian/Plowboy has been doing clean-up around the 910s, repairing irrigation, etc. They are thinking about putting in mulch until planting decisions have been made and are ready to be implemented for the entire complex. November is an optimal planting month, as natural irrigation and cooler temperatures can be expected.

Progress report. 

900s, 910s, 920s: Bob has completed his punch lists for these clusters, and these items are being worked on. *Everyone* (not just owners) is eager to get these items taken care of, but it is often difficult to finalize detail work.

930s: Punch lists are being compiled for this cluster as well. Window cleaning and caulking around the entry courtyards is in progress. The remaining scaffolding has been “called” (is no longer being paid for) and should be removed this week. The dumpster and port-a-potty will be removed this week as well.
Roof tile installation won’t begin until the waterproofing (underlayment and PVC) is complete in the 960s and 970s. It should happen in October. Cement pouring hopefully soon.

940s: Stuccoing is in progress. The gray Sto waterproofing coat is almost done. The general contractor is working on his completion list items there now, prior to having Bob come in to compile his.
The crew of painters is now up to 10 men, and they are working on this cluster.

950s: Juliet door bars (for the match-existing units) will be installed this week (a matter of a half hour each). Plasterers are essentially done with the lathing. It will then wait for a week or so until the stucco work on the 940s is done.

960s: All rear door/window work is complete. The front courtyard windows are being worked on, about 3 units will remain to be done at the end of this week. Essentially all plaster demo is complete (some pecking out may still need to be done).

970s: Boxing up of back patio and family room doors/windows will start at the end of this week.

Next meeting: Tuesday Oct. 29, 2013, 11am.

Replacing Window crank handle with “propeller” model

I just replaced two of my long window crank arms with the shorter “propeller” type that don’t stick out so far. It does take more time to turn them to open the windows though. I bought a package of two (aisle 16 at Home Depot, right hand side about stomach height, $5.78). These are “universal”–come with 5 sizes of plastic sheath (ours need no. 3). The Home Depot propellers are slightly smaller in outside diameter than the original cranks, so a thin ring of bare metal shows. Not a big deal but since I was painting anyway I decided to put the red plastic cap back on, mask the screen, and spray paint them. (Better idea: use a small brush!) Below are a series of photos illustrating the process.
Amazon.com has 2 similar products for roughly the same price:
Ideal Security, 4-pack for $8, and Prime Line, 2 for $5.78.
If you didn’t do “match existing” and want to replace all of yours, a full set including the “Juliet windows” would need 11 of these I think (4 living room, 2 foyer, 3 family, 2 master bedroom). If anyone tries the amazon models, please report here in the comments whether those cover the entire metal base.

Oct. 2 Construction Meeting Notes

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 11:05am to noon.

Question about white weatherstripping around new windows: these fit into a small groove and are slid out vertically. They are removed during painting. There are small gaps in the corners after it is cut to length.

Wooden strips in concrete of back patios: The original ones were 2×4″ redwood, and the new ones around the perimeter will be as well. Owners can replace the remaining “cross” (many have rot) with new redwood, a grout joint, poured concrete, pea gravel, etc. [Some owners have installed tile or various decking materials over these patios. A concrete polishing professional did not recommend polishing exterior concrete because weathering soon destroys the sheen and deteriorates the surface.]

Joint where courtyard tile meets the walls: any debris will be blown out, filled with foam, and caulked.

Cleaning upper deck drain: If you can see debris through the cap, it may be better to remove it by hand than try to flush it out. Once screws are removed, it may be hard to remove if the gap is full of dirt & grime. Try prying/pulling it up gently. If you notice tufflex in the joint, the problem may be more severe.

Upper deck doorstop. Disk-type stops have been approved for deck and utility room doors, for all units that don’t already have the stick-type. The rigid stick-type have been ordered but haven’t come in yet.

Replacing courtyard gate and garage-utility locks. Owners are on their own about this. Project policy is that project contractors should not be doing extra jobs for homeowners. Some solutions:
1) Have a locksmith come out to rekey both knobs to match the new ones.
2) Owners remove old knobs or buy new ones and bring to locksmith to have rekeyed (may be cheaper).
3) Use the Juliet door handle & deadbolt (if you did “match existing”) on the utility door, purchasing a simple non-keyed deadbolt and lock for that door, and dealing with the gate separately.

Owner use of dumpsters (& heavy item moving assistance). We owners are NOT supposed to be using these for our personal items. This is an additional cost for the project. Also, owners should try to keep project time needed to help moving items out of or back into patios & deck to a minimum.

Progress report. 

900s & 910s: Only 2 units still have punch list items (although some things, like replacing the deck & utility doorstops, still await completion). FINAL completion this week or early next week.

920s: Punch list items in progress. The plasterer’s completion/punch list isn’t being pushed as hard because it is exterior and doesn’t disrupt homeowners as much.

930s: Scaffolding started coming down Tuesday (10/1) and today.
Final roof tile loading is in progress today; installation with O’Hagin vents will follow.
Cement pouring is being scheduled. There are also some units in the 920s that had scaffolding, and possibly units in the 940s and beyond, which have been waterproofed and may have pouring done. (see photo of tile loading conveyor truck)

940s: All doors/windows are in, papering in is about 90-95% complete, including Eisenwall patch. The gray Sto waterproofing coat will start in earnest next week.

950s: Last pod is getting its scaffolding put up today (10/2). Juliet doors/window work beginning this week, finishing up next week. (Some owner-installed windows are still being done, waited for scaffold.)

960s: Plasterers are working on tying in rear doors (all installed), haven’t done courtyard D/W yet.

970s: Upper decks, trellises, & patio doors are already demo’d. They are moving well ahead of the “front end”/”critical path” of the job, namely the doors & windows. Roof demo is complete; “titanium” roof paper is almost complete.

Next meeting: Tuesday Oct. 15, 2013, 10am.

White strip around all new doors & windows

Deborah noticed the white trim strip–about 1/2″ perpendicular to the plane of the wall running vertically between the stucco and the new doors/windows. For those doors (in the interior courtyard) that owners have chosen to leave white, this isn’t a problem. However, if you chose blue (and for back patio and Juliet, which must be blue), this strip is rather jarring. See photo. The email thread pasted below unfolded on the Community list.

On 9/17/2013 7:07 PM, Deborah Kuchnir Fygenson wrote:
Hello Neighbors, I commented on Harold’s blog regarding the doorstops, but I just realized that many may not follow the blog and its comments, so I wanted to voice my concern here, where more may read and respond: I was shocked to see so much white on the presumably finished doors and windows in Harold’s doorstop images. It seems to be generally the case that wall edges next to some new doors (see doorstoputility.jpg in Harold’s latest post) are being left as white rather than being painted to match the abutting stucco. To me, this looks very bad, especially when the doors and windows are painted to match the original blue color. Not at all what I think was conceived of in the collective decision to match existing as much as possible by painting the doors and windows… Also, in Harold’s doorstop gooseneck images it seems that the gaskets of the new operable windows (which are visible from the outside) are white, making the window seem strangely unfinished! Shouldn’t they be a closer match to the final window trim color (e.g. grey)? I mean, it looks kind of silly to paint the window frames and leave the gaskets a high contrast color? I’ve looked through the forum and e-mails and I don’t believe this particular lack of attention to detail has been discussed on the forum. Would any care to further educate me, or otherwise comment? Respectfully, Deborah
———————
On Sep 18, 2013, at 9:07 AM, Aranye Fradenburg <lfraden@english.ucsb.edu> wrote:

I believe there has been a little talk about paint inconsistency, but I think the inconsistencies were confined mostly to the tops of doors. Some homeowners had gone ahead and painted them, others wanted clarity with respect to the terms of the contract and how they were being fulfilled. Can’t remember how that ended up–most of us who are still in the thick of things merely pray for painting, period–but this does sound worse than what’s been discussed before. I hope we can do better.
Aranye
962
———————

Yes, this was also a concern that we expressed, as the 1/4 inch white lines around doors and windows is aesthetically unappealing, and is also inconsistent with the “match existing” emphasis that was heralded. Furthermore, because the painters have to lay on clean lines on either side of the white lines… this results in double the amount of areas that appear very sloppy due to the line being blurred or not in a straight line, and also paint being on the white… if there as simply one line from the stucco color to the door trim, I believe it would look better AND given that the chance for errors decreases by half, it would hopefully result in much great success of having properly painted (e.g. straight) lines.
Shane & Kary
928
———————-

–On 9/18/2013 4:00 PM -0700 Rudolph & Woolley wrote:
I believe that at least some of these white strips (the vertical ones
around the doors) are vinyl that is put in to define the end of the stucco
installation. You can find uninstalled examples of the product currently
in the 950s. It is manufactured by the Vinyl Corp which has a big web site
and makes dozens of products.

their technical specs sheet for these kinds of products (I think) is here:
http://www.vinylcorp.com/catalog/pdfs/12/1-1.pdf

That sheet says that paint adhesion is excellent and no priming is required.

So it seems to me that in principle there is no technical reason not to
paint these strips.

Cheers,
John
942
————————–
–On 9/19/2013 4:34 PM -0700 gail humphreys wrote:
Hi folks:

Some clarifications:

To allow free discussion to flow re the Project without exposing the WCPHOA to possible defamation lawsuits, we decided to make the website accessible to WCP homeowners only.

The board has a significant list of concerns re the work of the architect.

The white stripe around the doors was an oversight by the architect.  (He might argue that it was an intentional attempt to save costs.  We did not request it; he did not ask us.)  The strip is actually metal, and comes from the factory pre-painted.  Painting it  was not written into the Spann contract.    We believe that the architect focussed on the leak-remediation portion of the project—for which we believe he has done an excellent job—and treated casually the aesthetic elements of the Project.  We had a
meeting with him recently.  It was not particularly successful.  While the Board has taken no formal action, I think our feeling is that we have so many challenges before us, that to go forward with litigation to get the architect to pay for the aesthetic oddities just doesn’t make sense.  Our other choice is to pay for the changes ourselves.  Our budget is very tight right now and our future expenditures are not certain.   So, we are fixing small things, like the door stops, and passing on larger things, like the white borders around the doors.  When you paint the inside of your unit, you could do the strips yourself.  We will have the correct paint colors available.  Personal observation:  I no longer see the thin white strip. It just disappears in the whole of the  finished Project.

Hope this helps.
Gail
[note: Gail later sent a correction that the strip is indeed plastic]

Sept 17 Construction Meeting Notes

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 11:02am to noon.

Nails, screws, metal scraps on hardscape and in landscaping. Bob called an “all hands” meeting at 10am Monday–all of the foremen and workers came together for a discussion on safety & leaving a secure and safe job site. They will take much greater care to pick up any nails etc. when they see them–no matter whose they are, and to clean up more carefully at the end of the day. The roofer, plasterers and general contractor are now all aware and have agreed to this. However, we cannot expect a 100% find rate, but remain vigilant and take precautions.

Upper deck doorstop. The bumper that keeps the deck doorknob from hitting the parapet wall (also found on utility room and some other open-out doors) is a flexible model that rusts, and bends when not hitting at 90 degrees, allowing the lever to strike the wall (see separate post with multiple photos). In the meantime Stonemark has priced out a rigid aluminum stop, which will be installed wherever there are currently stops (upper deck, utility door, some other doors). The new ones are scheduled to arrive today. The replacement work for the 900s-920s will be done when the NRP door hinges are replaced. From the 930s on these will be installed directly. Note that these are screwed into the doors, whereas we previously had semi-spherical models that were mounted on the walls.
If your unit had “gooseneck” stops in the tile or concrete flooring before the LRP, those will be replaced with similar models. If you didn’t have any, you won’t get any.
Discussion why the architect chose to change these from the existing saucer-type mounted on the wall, and whether the Board would want to make an executive decision to “match existing.” (Not known why this principle wasn’t followed in this case.)
Considerations: Aesthetics, user-friendliness, cost, time–we’d have to see what we think about these issues. Would it have to be run by the architects? Given the cost concern, it would be good to let them know, even if not officially soliciting an opinion. Would this affect any warranty? We don’t know, but it is not a big deal.
The flexible stops cost $0.68, the aluminum ones $2-3. Harold found a ” Convex Door Stop, Wall Mount” for $4.69. If only the 930s-970s got these, we’d need about 90 of them (2/cluster x 5 clusters x 9units/cluster), for an added cost of $180 or so.
Wall units would be used only on units that don’t have those installed in the door already, with no choice. The Board should decide this. [It was discussed briefly at the 9/17 Board meeting, but until the warranty issue is resolved the Board doesn’t want to make a call on this.] (see separate blog post)

Door edge and jamb painting. It was clarified that the door edges–top and sides will NOT be painted blue (if the owner has chosen to have blue on interior courtyard doors), whereas the jambs (the framing in the house wall) WILL be painted blue. If blue paint was “slopped” onto the edge of a door it will be cleaned up during the completion/punch list process. (Note that owners are responsible for painting–or not–the white interior of the doors.)

Progress report. 

910s: Punch list items in progress.

900s: Punch list items in progress.

920s: First two units are into punch list.

930s: The color coat is almost complete on several pods, will be complete next week with scaffolding coming down, and final roof tile installation following. Exterior lights are being installed. (Do the roofers need the scaffolding? Not necessary, but convenient. The stucco contractor calls in that he is done, but the scaffolder may not come right away to pick them up.)

940s: Are about 4 weeks behind the 930s: all doors & windows are installed and papered in, with some fine tuning in progress. Courtyard tile work is in progress.

950s: Door setting is about 2/3 complete; last doors will be set this week.

960s: Boxing up of back side doors in progress, with first ones being removed now (photo).

970s: Roof work well underway; deck and trellis work is imminent.

Roof work/Tile loading: All roof work, except the tiles that can’t be installed until after the final stucco coat, is expected to be done (“dried in”) by the end of October or early November. However, the cement tiles won’t be loaded in advance anymore, since so much leaf debris settles up there and must be cleared off before the tiles can be installed (lesson from the 920s). When the roof work is done, the 910s parking lot containers will be removed. One fewer unsightly thing to see when driving in!

Question about a broken courtyard window: please report this to Bob as soon as possible, so that the responsible party can be determined. If this is impossible, the cost will fall to the project.

Damage to shrubs at base of scaffold ladder: this could have been avoided if the shrub had been cut back to clear a path to the ladder. Can Bob work with the landscaper to try to mitigate damage?

Next meeting: tentatively Tuesday Oct. 1, 2013, 11am.