Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 11:05am to noon.
Question about white weatherstripping around new windows: these fit into a small groove and are slid out vertically. They are removed during painting. There are small gaps in the corners after it is cut to length.
Wooden strips in concrete of back patios: The original ones were 2×4″ redwood, and the new ones around the perimeter will be as well. Owners can replace the remaining “cross” (many have rot) with new redwood, a grout joint, poured concrete, pea gravel, etc. [Some owners have installed tile or various decking materials over these patios. A concrete polishing professional did not recommend polishing exterior concrete because weathering soon destroys the sheen and deteriorates the surface.]
Joint where courtyard tile meets the walls: any debris will be blown out, filled with foam, and caulked.
Cleaning upper deck drain: If you can see debris through the cap, it may be better to remove it by hand than try to flush it out. Once screws are removed, it may be hard to remove if the gap is full of dirt & grime. Try prying/pulling it up gently. If you notice tufflex in the joint, the problem may be more severe.
Upper deck doorstop. Disk-type stops have been approved for deck and utility room doors, for all units that don’t already have the stick-type. The rigid stick-type have been ordered but haven’t come in yet.
Replacing courtyard gate and garage-utility locks. Owners are on their own about this. Project policy is that project contractors should not be doing extra jobs for homeowners. Some solutions:
1) Have a locksmith come out to rekey both knobs to match the new ones.
2) Owners remove old knobs or buy new ones and bring to locksmith to have rekeyed (may be cheaper).
3) Use the Juliet door handle & deadbolt (if you did “match existing”) on the utility door, purchasing a simple non-keyed deadbolt and lock for that door, and dealing with the gate separately.
Owner use of dumpsters (& heavy item moving assistance). We owners are NOT supposed to be using these for our personal items. This is an additional cost for the project. Also, owners should try to keep project time needed to help moving items out of or back into patios & deck to a minimum.
900s & 910s: Only 2 units still have punch list items (although some things, like replacing the deck & utility doorstops, still await completion). FINAL completion this week or early next week.
920s: Punch list items in progress. The plasterer’s completion/punch list isn’t being pushed as hard because it is exterior and doesn’t disrupt homeowners as much.
930s: Scaffolding started coming down Tuesday (10/1) and today.
Final roof tile loading is in progress today; installation with O’Hagin vents will follow.
Cement pouring is being scheduled. There are also some units in the 920s that had scaffolding, and possibly units in the 940s and beyond, which have been waterproofed and may have pouring done. (see photo of tile loading conveyor truck)
940s: All doors/windows are in, papering in is about 90-95% complete, including Eisenwall patch. The gray Sto waterproofing coat will start in earnest next week.
950s: Last pod is getting its scaffolding put up today (10/2). Juliet doors/window work beginning this week, finishing up next week. (Some owner-installed windows are still being done, waited for scaffold.)
960s: Plasterers are working on tying in rear doors (all installed), haven’t done courtyard D/W yet.
970s: Upper decks, trellises, & patio doors are already demo’d. They are moving well ahead of the “front end”/”critical path” of the job, namely the doors & windows. Roof demo is complete; “titanium” roof paper is almost complete.
Next meeting: Tuesday Oct. 15, 2013, 10am.