Wood vs. Metal door sill trim detail.

Following up on the Aug. 26 post, where Cynthia reported that her wood trim had been glued to the floor causing added expense to remove, here are some photos of the two types of trim being used to close the gap between the new door threshold and the owners’ flooring. The first two are examples of stainless steel with tile, the next two are two different types of wood trim. The installers decide which is more appropriate–just so you know what you are getting in to. On the last photo (metal with carpet) note that the owner has painted the aluminum astragal (the vertical strip closing the gap between the doors) white. You can click the images to enlarge them and see the differences.

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Juliet door–levers now on outside

Something else we noticed today: while the added Juliet door railing height is required by code, the levers on the outside are not. We used to have flat caps where the exterior doorknob would be, now we have levers, which look rather silly. (Photo of those will be added soon.)

Doorstop issue

At today’s construction meeting Dorothy and Harold discussed with Bob the first solution to the rusting exterior flexible doorstops–rigid aluminum ones. These are needed for the upper deck and utility doors. We noted that these are mounted on the door (not the domed models on the wall that we had). While the utility room door hits the wall at 90 degrees, the upper deck froms an oblique angle that could, over time, loosen the stop in the door. We also noted that the new stops stick out farther since they need to be longer than the door levers, which we judged an aesthetic disadvantage. While taking pictures to illustrate the problem, we noticed that, since the new open-out doors are not recessed like the old ones were, they open (almost) completely (180 degrees), and can hit the wall or open awning windows. Some of the old doors had “gooseneck” stops screwed into the courtyard/patio tile–these will be replaced if there originally.
Do residents have strong opinions about which solution is better–rigid door-mount vs. convex wall-mount? If so, please discuss in the comments section, below.
Above is the solution used on the 900s-920s, which will soon be replaced by rigid models of the same type. Here is what can happen if the door is opened vigorously–the lever hits the wall:

But will the rigid replacement loosen over time because it hits at an angle? How much are we willing to spend to buy convex models (flexible cost $.68, rigid $2-3, convex $4-5)? (We need maybe 90-100 for the remaining clusters, so the added cost would be about $200.)

Finally, not to confuse matters, here is what a new gooseneck stopper looks like:


And here is the application on the utility room door:

Watch out for nails (email thread on flat tire danger!)

Harold: the emails below were sent to the community list on Sept 11, continuing until Sept. 15 with Harry’s photo of the “catch” of his magnetic sweep:

Harry’s magnet found over 100 items around his unit.

I’ll add that Dorothy has sent around several warnings about this since last fall, and that the contractors have been notified. However, since it is impossible to prove which nail came from where, homeowner vigilance is the best remedy: walk to your mailbox and keep an eye peeled!
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Dear Neighbors,
this morning I got my first flat tire, due to a gigantic nail. Several hours and hundreds of dollars later, I am sending this warning so that, hopefully, it won’t happen to you. Since my car was parked in the visitor lot next to the 970s, I believe the nail must have been on the road. Maybe we can all keep an eye out for nails & screws on the road as we drive, bike or walk out or in–in addition to checking around our units and clusters as we already do?
Best,
Dominique 977
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The roofing trucks ‘race’ around the outer roadway (and often turn around in my cluster) spreading nails long after the roofing work in the cluster was done. As Dominque notes, I always go not only behind my garage, but out to the mail boxes in the first cluster to make sure that I don’t drive over any nails.

I was surprised to still be finding nails until I saw the truck driving into my cluster and the speed at which it was moving.

Cynthia 919
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Dog walkers unite! Those walks are a great time to find nails. I collect
one or two on the perimeter road most days I’m home. In our cluster, I’ve
been finding a few each day around 4 to 5 pm (18 nails on Monday) on the
few weekdays I’m home. It will help if we all ramp up the patrols, to
protect our tires and our feet.

Tess
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This information should be sent to the roofers, in particularly Frank,  who drives the truck, so that they are more careful in the future and  perhaps inspect the road after they are done each day. Maybe the board  would like to send the message.
Best,
Eduardo Raposo, #913.
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Sigh, so sad to hear that this is still happening. I’ve experienced three flat tires since the construction started, all from a variety of nails and screws. Sears will repair a puncture for $20.
Regards,
Bob Nieder
Unit# 911
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Thanks for the tip, Bob. And thanks to Tess for the dog walking / nail spotting patrols!
What I found was that if you get insurance on your new tires, which costs about $20, they will fix or replace them free of charge for the lifetime of the tires. I think it’s well worth it.
Best,
Dominique.
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Better yet for COSTCO members who buy their tires at COSTCO, they fix your flats and rotate your tires for free.
Teo
===========Sept. 14 the thread migrated to nails in the landscaping; I don’t have all of the posts; Cynthia noted that she found lots of nails in the greenscape around her unit.
===========
How about once the construction is over, you hire someone (me) to go through the entire complex with a metal detector. Problem solved.
Marwa
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We have a metal detector you can use.
Catherine Weinberger
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Harry Nelson:
Another possibility is to sweep with one of these…. perhaps they even can be rented…
http://www.shieldscompany.com/magnetic-brooms-rakes
However, the metal detector is still a good idea for non-magnetic metals.
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Wow! Our neighbor in the 960’s stepped on a nail in the garden area and drove it into the sole of his shoe. Be careful folks until we can get this cleaned up.

Tetanus shots up to date?

Found 5 mails today in the common drive area in the 960’s.

Tess
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Neighbors,

While we had some nails in our cluster, nothing like what you show has turned up. I wonder if the accelerated work schedule is a factor, causing them to be less meticulous about these things as they pick up the pace.
Juan, 900s
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Hi Juan… when I walked around before sweeping with the magnet, I saw maybe 5 nails (or screws) on the surface.
I was surprised at how many popped up out of the dirt when
I dragged the magnet around. I should have said 100 fasteners… add up the nails + screws to get over 100.
I think all the metal was magnetic… lath + fasteners mainly.
all the best, Harry
——————-

Thanks Harry! I would urge everyone to be extra careful while walking around. Construction debris has reached Palm Plaza and to a much smaller extent, the swimming pool area. Most likely the workers are not always responsible for this spread, as I cannot imagine how a worker could have dropped the screw I found in the swimming pool area, many feet inside the fence. Ideally, kids should always wear sturdy shoes and long pants while playing outside. But of course the weather and children’s whims are not always cooperative. So we can only do our best. And yes, keeping our tetanus shots up to date is always a good idea. Maybe Hilary and I should invest in a magnet, too. Harry: any suggestions on how to go about getting one? 🙂
Best,
Xiao-bin (967)

Sept. 4 Construction Meeting Notes

Harold, Dorothy and Bob met from 11:20am to noon.

A progress report was the main item discussed at this meeting. 

910s: Two units have final punch list items; the work on the “NRP”–non-removable pin–hinges is still pending.

900s: The general contractor has said his punch list is complete, so those items are being confirmed; the plaster punch list is still to come.

920s: Interior work is complete, Bob is compiling punch lists (which are now shorter, since contractors are addressing issues found in the 910s and 900s). Finish coat of door/window paint in progress, and final placement of roof tiles in progress.

930s: Exterior stucco rough patching completed, and gray waterproofing Sto coat almost done. The color coat will start soon, projected to take about 3 weeks.

940s: Doors on the rear of the units are installed with paper tie-in; front (entry courtyard) side now in progress.

950s: Rear doors and windows are being done with the 940s as time & manpower permit–not the focus yet though.

960s: Upper deck framing with waterproofing coat complete (“rain ready”–further surface coatings still to come). Deck doors will be done prior to other door/window work, but aren’t in yet. Roofing & tiles coming off and Sarnafil going on. Some trellises have been reinstalled.

970s: Roofs, decks and trellises starting very soon.

Workers’ break time: some homeowners have placed their lawn furniture out for the use of workers during their breaks. However there have been problems with workers using furniture they were not invited to use, leaving trash, what if something is damaged or breaks, etc., so the rule is that workers need to find their own spaces not using WCP property. Even though we may like to be hospitable, homeowners are discouraged from inviting this kind of use.

Landscaping replacement: the Board and landscaping committee have not had time to address this yet.

Next meeting: Wednesday Sept. 4, 2013, 11am. 

floor-sill detail tip from Cynthia

Now that I am about to install a new carpet in the living room and tiles in the family there appears to be a problem having the small wood strip glued to the new door sills. The company which will do the installation told me that they must be removed and that it may be difficult to remove the glue. I mentioned this in an email to, I think, Bob who said that some of these strips were glued, others nailed. It is not clear that they serve any function. You may wish to ask that these strips not be installed, if you are putting in new floors, or at least find out if they serve any purpose.
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Harold’s comment: the purpose of the wood strip is, I believe, to conceal the shiny door pan flashing. If you are having your own remodel work done at the same time as the project, it is important to communicate possible interface issues to Bob, so that he can coordinate with the contractors. I’ve had to do this for my own interior work, and it has worked out so far. (I’ll see if I can get a photo to add soon. Here it is: a detail of the upper deck door threshold.)

Aug. 20 construction meeting notes

Schedule update. Some work is being done in ALL clusters at this point.
910s: Most units are basically done. All doors with exterior hinges were ordered with “NRP”–non-removable pins (a tiny headless screw that goes through the hinge into a small groove on the pin), but the ones delivered randomly did or did not have such pins. It is not hard to remove the incorrect ones and replace them, but determining which and how many takes time and requires access. Bob is working with the supplier on how to do this as efficiently as possible. This applies to all clusters so far, up to the 930s at least.
900s: Situation very much as in the 910s. Solutions to the gap at the bottom of the astragal (the up-and-down sliding bar inside the edge face of a double door) are being explored.
920s: Stucco color coat is done, scaffolding is coming down. Still some final roof work now that the exterior surfaces are complete.
930s: Exterior stucco rough patching and interior trim work are proceeding, almost all units.
940s: are now the focus of the “critical path.”
950s: Prep work for impending “critical path.”
960s: Framing of upper decks almost complete.
970s: had cluster meeting last week; trellises have been removed; roof drain testing on Wed. 8/21. Deck crew will begin work once 960s are complete. This crew replaces the trellises too.

Clarification of placement of a private storage POD. Bob will let the new owners of 946 know where they can place their POD as they move in during the second week of September.

Next meeting: Wednesday Sept. 4, 2013, 11am.

Dust protection tips from 942 and 937

Hi Neighbors:

I write to pass along a warning that came to me from thoughtful neighbors: As they near the end of the preparation of your courtyard to receive your new doors and windows, there will be a LOT of dust.

After you have been “plywooded in” and the old stuff has been removed, after a day or so the workers will come to smooth down the existing concrete and add filler where needed.

This stage is very dusty. And two things are important to keep in mind:

1. The plastic and plywood barriers that have been installed in your house–even with all that tape around the plastic–are leaky.

2. To deal with their dust problem, the workers use a large fan which is aimed at the guy doing the grinding. This brings him fresh air, but simultaneously it forces air TOWARD the interior of the house, and with that air will come dust. And the dust will come through all the leaks around the plywood barrier.

Being forewarned by thoughtful neighbors, I took some steps that were time-consuming and involved some expense, but definitely helped. Using the remains of the roll of plastic I had purchased long ago at Home Depot, and most of a roll of the widest blue tape they sell at Home Depot, I encased all of the plywood structures in another layer of plastic, taped directly to the wall.

I think it largely worked. There were still small plumes of dust that came in primarily at the floor level despite many layers of tape and paper. And as you would expect, the plastic ballooned out accordingly when they aimed the fan at different parts of the job. I took that as an indicator of success.

Of course almost everything in the house is already covered in plastic. But we did not notice much additional dust in the house after this process.

Maybe there’s another, better solution. I’ve suggested that the contractors actually use a fan system designed to suck air (and dust) away from the work site. But it is not up to me, and there are many considerations that I may not be aware of.

Forewarned is forearmed, I hope.

Best,
John
942
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Hi everyone,
Another warning: the biggest problem we had with particulate matter was when they did the interior work filling in and finishing the walls around the new windows and doors. Leave all your plastic coverings on the furniture etc. in place for this phase and realize that anything near the doors and windows that is not covered will get sprayed, e.g. the frames of any pictures left hanging on nearby walls (though I found that this washes off). After this phase, the only way to restore your air quality is to carefully remove all the plastic coverings and vacuum like crazy (including walls). If you’re at all sensitive, I would suggest doing this as soon as they finish plastering the interior rather than waiting for the final phase (attaching the frames around the doors and windows), which doesn’t raise much dust.
Good luck,
Pat
937

Insulate your garage ceiling

Harry Nelson makes the following excellent suggestion:

Hi All,

A heads-up… when the project team opens up your deck outside the master bedroom, you’ll notice that there is no standard building insulation in the garage
ceiling.

Many of our garages get hot/cold, in part, because of that absence of insulation. The effect depends on the orientation of your unit to the sun, and where your position is in your group of units.

The project team can’t install it for you, it is outside the project scope. But if you are ready and handy, and you are extremely careful not to delay the project, you might be able to install that insulation yourself. Insulation is available at Home Depot.

Talk it over carefully with Bob Landegger before you try to do anything. There is only 1 or 2 days when the deck is open and you have the opportunity.

all the best, Harry

July 10 Construction meeting notes

Overall process: one month deck & trellis work; one month door & window work; one month plaster & stucco work. Harold’s record for 930s: Deck & trellis work May 20-June 19. Demo June 7-13 mainly (week 4). Back windows/doors boxed June 11-28; ctyd windows boxed July 7-?22?. (Some were opened by July 12–dates for 932 only.)

Schedule: overall, the project is about 2 weeks behind the schedule published on June 6. Stonemark will release a new schedule soon.
910s: punch list items being completed (still, soooo sorry! thanks for forebearance)
900s: all scaffolding is now down. Caulking, clean-up, door adjustments, doorbells–JEM is doing the completion list now (prior to SM+owners’ “punch list”)
920s: drywall work is complete, trim is going on, Sto coat almost done, then color coat in next 1-2 weeks (by 7/26 or so)
930s: windows & doors in courtyards are being set, moving clockwise, 2 units completed.
940s: refoofing in high gear, also deck & trellis reconstruction, and rear patio stucco demo (this is the REALLY LOUD stuff!)
950s: demo may start around July 12-19.  [note: June 7 schedule says start on July 8, so indeed about 1-2 weeks behind.]
960s: cluster meeting ca. July 11, then about a week later roof & trellis demo start. [note: June 7 schedule says start on Aug. 12, so starting sooner–see next item, but taking longer.]

Roofers & trellis work will proceed ahead of the other crews. There is now a bucket truck on site, so they won’t have to wait for scaffolding or use the forklift truck for some work.

“Rain” tests. Some owners in 910s have tried to replicate wet weather with hoses and found leaks. However when waterproofing consultant did a more downward angle from a ladder, leaks were not replicated. We will await their reports. There were slight hardware (deadbolt) leaks after 30 mins, which may be solved by tightening.

House numbers on carport trellises. These look good there, but it is too late to make this a permanent placement as part of the project. The Association can explore this at a later date.